Where can I rock climb in Jeju?
Some really nice rock climbing can be found in a few places on Jeju. It's a volcanic island, so the rock comes in various forms of basalt. The quality varies depending on your location, but the best areas offer solid rock and interesting climbing. Bring your quickdraws as the climbing is 95% sport climbing; there is little to no trad climbing.
Right now, there are established routes at:
In the dry riverbed 무수천 Musucheon, the rock is slippery, overhanging, balancey and technically interesting. There are no running rivers in Jeju since the rain seeps through the porous rock but be careful of flash floods that can come suddenly to these dry rivers if it's raining hard on Halla Mountain. There are a few of every grade ranging from 5.9 to 5.13. It's not super friendly to beginners as there is only one 5.9 but the 5.10s are fun, the 5.11s are spectacular, and the 5.12s are the best around. The 굴다리 area is on the south side of the road and up the river about 500 meters.
(Rough route guide at http://blog.daum.net/kjcjkj/15714434)
다람쥐굴 Squirrel Cave is another dry riverbed located in the city close to the Halla Library. It's similar to Musucheon, so be careful of flash floods if it's raining. Squirrel Cave is one of the better choices for novices, as there are more easy routes here. They tend to be a bit shorter than Musucheon, but for the expert, the routes in the cave are fantastic steep climbs.
The sea cliffs at 외돌개 Oedolgae feature some solid but sometimes sharp rock, scattered with quite a few rusted and sketchy bolts, but never too difficult, starting at 5.7 and capping at 5.11. There are no chains, so you have to build your own anchors from the bolts at the top.
단산 Dansan has some routes for the adventurous. The rock is generally slab and a bit crumbly. The South Ridge is a route for the bold.
엉또폭포 Eongtto Waterfall has a few nice routes, but it is seldom climbed, so the routes can get a bit dirty.
(Rough route guide at http://blog.daum.net/kjcjkj/15714434)
다람쥐굴 Squirrel Cave is another dry riverbed located in the city close to the Halla Library. It's similar to Musucheon, so be careful of flash floods if it's raining. Squirrel Cave is one of the better choices for novices, as there are more easy routes here. They tend to be a bit shorter than Musucheon, but for the expert, the routes in the cave are fantastic steep climbs.
The sea cliffs at 외돌개 Oedolgae feature some solid but sometimes sharp rock, scattered with quite a few rusted and sketchy bolts, but never too difficult, starting at 5.7 and capping at 5.11. There are no chains, so you have to build your own anchors from the bolts at the top.
단산 Dansan has some routes for the adventurous. The rock is generally slab and a bit crumbly. The South Ridge is a route for the bold.
엉또폭포 Eongtto Waterfall has a few nice routes, but it is seldom climbed, so the routes can get a bit dirty.
There is also a 12m artificial outdoor wall called 오름 마당 Oreum Madang at the stadium area near the bus terminal in Jeju City. The wall is free to the public, but you must bring your own rope and quickdraws and be able to lead climb to put the rope up. You'll need 10 Quickdraws and there are anchors at the top. Simply call the phone number that's posted there and sign in at the main office to turn the lights on for evening sessions.
Where are the climbing gyms in Jeju?
There are two bouldering gyms in Jeju City. These are quite small compared to back home, and occupy only a single floor in an office building. That being said, they can be quite fun and are run more like a club than a business which provides a wonderful community and a fun way to get to know the local climbers. Call or visit the gyms for rates.
Jeju Sport Climbing Movezone
Website: http://cafe.daum.net/sansoo1214
Address: 이도이동 1011-6(고산동산 2로 2)
Phone: 064-723-5014(Click for Map: 2nd floor, black windows, above the convenience store)
Directions for a taxi - 특별자치 경찰대(구 세무서) 맞은편 조선한위원 골목 맞은편 편이점 2층
Website: http://cafe.daum.net/sansoo1214
Address: 이도이동 1011-6(고산동산 2로 2)
Phone: 064-723-5014(Click for Map: 2nd floor, black windows, above the convenience store)
Directions for a taxi - 특별자치 경찰대(구 세무서) 맞은편 조선한위원 골목 맞은편 편이점 2층
Ace Climbing Club
Website: http://cafe.daum.net/asiaone8848
Address: 제주 특별자치도 오라2동 1433번지 2층
Phone: 011-693-3119
Where can I buy climbing gear in Jeju?
In Jeju City, you can find all sorts of gear at Mountain Island. Soft goods, such as shoes and harnesses are reasonably priced as compared to home, but hard goods such as carabiners and cams are quite expensive. Mountain Island is located less than one block East of Starbucks in Shin Jeju.
Join a climbing gym. You must find someone who can safely teach you how to climb. The owners and members of the bouldering gyms are extremely friendly, excellent climbers, and offer free lessons for members.
You will need to buy:
- Shoes
- Harness
- Chalk bag
- Chalk
Visit http://www.koreaontherocks.com/
